A NOT-SO-SERIOUS GLIMPSE BACK
ON THE HISTORY OF IRONWOOD

Written By Joe Carlson, October, 1997

Fifty million years ago the highest volcanic mountain chain in the world covered the western half of the Upper Peninsula, forming the Gogebic Range lava outcroppings. The Pre-Cambrian Era, as this time is known as, produced the oldest rocks on earth -- the igneous and metamorphic granites, gneiss and schists known as Laurentian granite and Keewatin (Minnesota) greenstone. About 20,000 years ago, the last glacier receded from Gogebic County forming glacial Lake Ontonagon. Its outlet was through present Lake Gogebic, probably escaping to the west via Bigham Creek. A huge river flowed through the sites of the present range cities of Wakefield, Bessemer and Ironwood, finally discharging into glacial Lake Ashland in the northwestern part of Iron County, Wisconsin.

The area was untouched by humans with the exception, perhaps, of small hunting parties of native Americans until the early 17th century when Father Rene Menard explored the area around Lac Vieux Desert near Watersmeet. In 1840, the War Department sent Captain Thomas Jefferson Cram to map the area between Lac Vieux Desert and the Montreal River, the present boundary between Wisconsin and Michigan. The Chippewa band of Indians signed a treaty relinquishing their claims to the western part of the U.P. in 1842. It was now possible for the federal government to issue mining leases and sell the land.

Until this time, people were not very interested in the western U.P. Too cold and too desolate, they claimed. But all of that was to change.  The great iron ore boom along with the dream of growing richer would quickly change the minds of the wealthy industrialists from the east.

We all know about the discovery of ore on Newport Hill by Raphael Pumpelly in 1871. We have all heard how the city was named after Captain James 'Iron' Wood and that the first mine shaft was sunk in 1884. But there is much more to tell about the early days of Ironwood.

The founders of Ironwood had a dream. They were committed to building a community that would be the finest in the Midwest. Ironwood would soon rival Chicago in that regard.

Every so often, I hear someone tell me that my wife and I were fools for moving back to Ironwood. But we, too, had a dream. We wanted to return to the solitude of this area, the place of our birth. "There is nothing to do here" we were told. "Things have changed" and "the shopping facilities leave much to be desired". This may or may not be true today, but either way, it wasn't always the case.

The town of Ironwood was settled in the spring of 1885 as part of Ontonagon County. In 1887, Gogebic County split off from Ontonagon County and Ironwood became part of Gogebic County.  

Ironwood was incorporated as a city on April 8, 1889.

Aurora Street (in the picture above) , Suffolk, Ashland and Vaughn Streets were the first streets built. (Ashland Street was changed to McLeod in later years). The first school meeting was held in the new school building on Vaughn Street.

The town was incorporated as a village in 1887 with a population of 1,000. Members of the first village board were: president A.A. Hammond; clerk John J. Shea, and six trustees: William Trebilcock, J.J. Cremans, D.E. Sutherland, C.P. Newberry, Peter Donally and P.C.J. Murphy.

The first merchandiser was Bingham and Perrin with their log warehouse and store on the corner of Ayer and Suffolk. The Walker House was the first hotel. It was located on the southwest corner of Lowell and Ayer Streets where Lahti's car lot is now.

Among the first businessmen of the new city were A. Lieberthal (the Lieberthal Block still stands on Suffolk across from where Hulstrom's City News was); Patrick O'Neil, owner of the Alhambra Theatre on Ayer Street near Lowell; William Rothschild, who owned the Rothschild Block on Suffolk between Aurora and McLeod Streets; C.J. Laughren, proprietor of the New St. James (now the Town House); Mullen Brothers furniture and undertaking on Suffolk between McLeod and Aurora, and Walter S. Goodland, editor of the Ironwood Times.

On September 17, 1887, over half of the downtown business portion of the city burned for over three hours. Damage was over $200,000. The fire started just after lunch, probably from a defective chimney in Dwyer's restaurant on Ayer Street. The flames spread rapidly to the adjoining wooden buildings. J.T. Atkinson's place, the Alhambra Theatre and the St. James hotel were soon a mass of flames. Then the fire jumped from the St. James Hotel across the street to Bingham and Perrin's and Con Geary's saloon and livery stable. The fire travelled south from Ayer Street along Suffolk burning the Bank of Ironwood, the post office, Pierce's Express Office and the Rothschild Block. The wind died down and the Hurley Fire Department arrived just about the time the fire threatened to cross McLeod. In the end, 80 buildings were lost, a total of six square blocks. Merchants tried in vain to save their goods by bringing it into the street. Mobs of people stole everything that was saved.

About this time, hoards of immigrants came to Ironwood to work in the mines and logging camps that surrounded the area. They came from Finland, Sweden, England, Poland, Italy, the Slavic countries and the rest of Europe. They came to fulfill their dreams in Ironwood.

Approaching the turn of the century, Ironwood was a bustling metropolis of about 10,000, having gained status as a city in April 1889. City officials in 1889 were Mayor N. Hibbert, Recorder John J. Shea, Treasurer William Tribilcock and four Justices of the Peace -- P.C. Murphy, George F. Kelly, Oliver S. Kerr and Louis M. Munthe.

Other businesses in 1889 were Frank Healy's Bargain Store in the Bank of Ironwood Block on the northwest corner of Aurora and Suffolk; M.L. Kane's saloon on Suffolk between Aurora and Ayer; the London Restaurant across from the depot; the Ironwood Candy Kitchen at 130 E. Aurora. J.E. Bean on the corner of Suffolk and McLeod sold nearly everything in his store including watches, jewelry, books, stationery, pianos, organs and musical instruments of all kinds, sewing machines, etc.

Homes were built as fast as the capital could be raised. One of the first home builders was Jefferson D. Day, the superintendent of the Metropolitan Iron and Land Company. He built the beautiful mansion on East Vaughan Street at Mansfield. Thomas Hartigan, a merchant, and Matt Fitzsimmons, a mining captain, built wonderful northside homes, and Luther L. Wright, principal of the city school system lived in the equally-pretentious mansion next to the Day family.

Soon The Northside, that area north of the tracks where most of the city's wealthy families were located, was also the home of a couple of breweries and a barrel factory.

Aurora, Norrie, East Norrie, Pabst, Jessieville, Reno and Newport and Bonnie (in Erwin Township) Locations were there under the headframe of their respective mine. It is easy to believe that the early homebuilders grew very rich building all those homes next to the mineshaft.

At the turn of the century, there were many things to do. Attending musical events, for example. Ironwood had four bands in 1890. The Norrie Band had 19 pieces; members wore dark blue uniforms with light blue facings and a Gilmore hat (whatever that was).

The Twin City Band was directed by M. Holemo and had 19 pieces; its uniform was blue with yellow and gold trimmings and U.S. regulation helmets with yellow plumes.

The World's Fair Band had 14 pieces and was attired in a dark blue uniform and a silk hat. And, finally, the 16 piece Hibernica Band which met at Mullin's Hall on Aurora Street between Lowell and Lawrence on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays at 7:30; they wore dark blue uniforms with gold lace trimming and a Gilmore hat.

Pierce's Opera House on the southeast corner of Suffolk Street and McLeod had a seating capacity of 700. The Grand Fancy Bazaar was held at the Pierce in April, 1890. Attractions included oriental costumes, a gypsy encampment, fine art gallery collection, the snow palace of the Lilliputians, McGinty the Clown, and the famous Japanese dwarf To Kiykma. In August of that year, Mrs. Tom Thumb, now known as Countess Magri since the death of her famous husband, sang at the Pierce. The entertainment also included trained pigeons, a cuckoo and other trained birds. Mr. Clark played his banjo for the audience.

Bicycles were the latest craze among teens and adults. In March, 1890, George Willetts of Ashland and John Houson of Ironwood raced five miles for a $2.00 purse. Willits won.

If there was nothing better to do, you could take a walk in the iron-red, muddy streets or watch the cows eat the grass on your lawn. An item in The News Record for June 25, 1898, called for "anyone, anywhere -- Hurley, Bessemer, Wakefield or any other old place -- that has a few cows or horses, or both, to be put out to pasture, ought not to lose any time in sending their live stock to Ironwood. Miles of good pasturage in this town free of charge. Free access to lawns and gardens when the picking gets poor on the streets. Horses and cows are the whole thing here; nothing to bother them but the flies. Send along your livestock; a few thousand more head will make no difference; send your animals to the feast."

Parades were big events in Ironwood at the turn of the century (and would continue to be for several decades). On the Fourth of July in 1898, clowns paraded the downtown area as did Uncle Sam and a squad of "Cubans" who had a group of Spaniards in tow. (The Spanish fleet had just been captured marking the beginning of the end of the Spanish-American War.) Cowboys and Indians, clowns and "coons" led the merriment. The Grand Parade was the principal feature in the morning. First in line was the Norrie Band followed by the Curry Rifle Cadets. The different civic societies came next, including the Masons, the Odd Fellows, the Knights of Pythias, Ancient Order of Workmen, Sons of St. George, Ancient Order of Foresters of America, Improved Order of Red Men, and The Scandinavian Society

In the afternoon, the races began in the front of the Curry Hotel (now Lahti's new car lot). A race was held for boys 15 years and younger from the different wards. The First Ward won that race, but the flag race for boys 12 and under was won by the Fourth Ward boys with the Norrie team coming in a close second. The three-legged race and the sack race was held on west McLeod Avenue. Joe Blackwell and Willie Stevens, Dan Harrington and Harry Silverman were winners.

The standing broad jump and the potato race took place in front of City Hall on McLeod (demolished about ten years ago). The running broad jump and high jump were held on Vaughn Street. Harry Barr, Will Boyer and Clyde Urquhart were winners. Then everyone went to Ayer Street for the 220 yard low hurdles, 100 yard dash, men's flag race and the 120 yard high hurdles. Art Urquhart, Harry Barr, and Will Boyer were winners. The miners' drilling contest was won by Joe Henders and Jim Stanlake who drilled about a foot in 20 minutes and won $12 for their efforts.

Wrestling matches followed and continued for the rest of the afternoon until 7:30 that evening when Prof. Kaler took to the skies in his balloon from the corner of Suffolk and Ayer Streets. In the evening, the Ironwood Fire Department sponsored the Grand Ball at the Armory (located on McLeod across from the Memorial Building). The ladies of St. Ambrose Church served the supper.

For over half a century, the city park had a bandshell of sorts where people would listen to the bands and Holemo's orchestra on warm summer evenings. The circular sidewalk around the park was filled with boys and girls. The girls seemed to walk in one direction around the park as the boys walked in the other direction. Eyes met, hands were held and soon couples were walking in the same direction. (A bandshell was constructed to replace the one that burned down.  It is called the "Holemo Bandshell" in honor of Mathias Holemo.)

There was a lot to do back then. If you really think about it though, Ironwood hasn't changed all that much over the years. Granted, not too many parades are held in Ironwood nowadays. Bessemer and Wakefield have a grand Fourth of July festival each year. Ironwood has a summer festival and the Jack Frost parade. Cows and horses don't roam the streets much any more, but deer and black bear still do. We can watch cars and pickup trucks fall into potholes. Four-wheelers and snowmobiles have pretty much taken over the train tracks.

Many of the old buildings have been torn down. The headframes of the mines are gone. But the most important part of our city -- the people -- are still here. And as long as we're here, we'll always have something to do and something to dream about.

Old Depot Museum
150 North Lowell
PO Box 45
Ironwood, MI.  49938
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906/932-2756 (fax)
email: chamber@ironwoodmi.org

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